Tooting Broadway

 

Another Charles Holden station, almost identical to the others I have visited on this extension of the Northern line to Morden.

Outside the station is a statue of Edward VII (reigned 1901-1910). He was the eldest son of Queen Victoria, born as Prince Albert and known as Bertie in the family. He was almost 60 when he became king. He was a very popular monarch, known as a peacemaker and the last sovereign to wield political power. The statue was funded by public subscriptions and originally stood a short distance away, when erected shortly after his death in 1911. It was moved in 1994 after the area was remodelled.

Across the road from the station on a small traffic island is this magnificent elaborate lamp. It is actually a ventilation pipe for the tube station.

As I left the station onto Tooting High Street, the roads were blocked with traffic and the streets were full of people. If I could have asked people where their families had originated I think the answers would have covered half the countries in the world.

I didn't think there would be much to see but I was proved wrong, It wasn't just shops and more shops. There were two indoor markets selling a whole range of things from clothes, jewellery. household goods to fresh meat fish and veg. Tooting Market was established in 1930 and has been one of South London's most popular indoor markets.

There is a huge variety of things for sale.

Built in 1923 this building was once a department store. The business was part of the Co-operative movement which amalgamated during the 20th century and still runs convenience stores and supermarkets in many high streets. People would join as members and would have a share in the profits of the company in the form of dividend coupons which could be spent in the store. I can recall my school shoes were always bought with the 'divi' as it was called back in the 50s. 

The original sign is still clearly visible: Royal Arsenal Cooperative Society

This art deco store was built in the 1920s and ceased trading in 1985. It went through a long period of disrepair but local objections to its demolition have paid off and the building has been restored and given a new life  as a Lidl supermarket on the ground floor and  a Premier Inn Hotel above.

The King's Head, originally an ale house, built in 1621. It was rebuilt in 1896 by W. M. Brunton, a designer of numerous public houses.

As you can see from the signage this building is a Gurudwara, a Sikh temple. Looking at the building  and its coat of arms above the door it is obvious that it didn't start its life as a Gurudwara. 

After some research I discovered that it was built in 1904 as a Royal Mail sorting office. When it closed some 80 years later it was bought by the Sikh community and converted into a place of worship.

A colourful seat in the middle of the High Street.

On Mitcham Road I found the old art deco Granada cinema and concert hall of 1931. It was the first cinema to be Grade I listed and once hosted acts such as Frank Sinatra, Jerry Lee Lewis and the Beatles. It is now a gaming and Bingo hall and  I had heard that it was magnificent inside. I decided to try my luck and see if I could get in. At first I was refused because it is a members only establishment but another security guard said if I could be quick, I could take a photo of the inside.  

It was well worth my pleading to get inside as it was so unusual with its gilded arches, cathedral like size lined with gothic mirrors.

Marble staircases

I quickly took as many photos as I could of this amazing building which took me completely by surprise.

There were numerous pubs in Tooting. This large one was founded in the 1800s by Barclays which at one time was known for their beer brewing but nowadays the company is a global financial business. There used to be a boxing gym above the pub and in 1993 the pub was the venue for the first promotion by the newly formed British Ladies Boxing Association and featured 10 women fighting six two minute  rounds.

Time for a sit down and cup of tea. I don't recall the name of this charming little cafe but I do remember that it was very much a centre for the Aussie/Kiwi community.

Across the road from the cafe was the  local library. Unfortunately it  wasn't open, which was a shame as this is always the best place to visit for information about local places of interest. It is a very distinctive building with its brickwork and terracotta features. Built in two stages with the upper floor being added in 1908, six years after the lower floor had been built.

The weather vane on top of the building used to have a copper galleon on the top but that has now been removed.

Further down the road was this monument commemorating the site of the 1823 Parish Pump.

Close to the Parish Pump is the church of St Nicholas, built in the 1830s. The previous church which was demolished prior to the building of this one was noted in the doomsday book of 1086.

On the same road was this new housing estate. It was on this site in 1897 that St Joseph's RC College was taken over by Wandsworth board of Guardians to provide extra workhouse accommodation. It later became a home for the aged and infirm. During WW1 the War Office took charge of the building and it became a Military Hospital. It had 712 beds for enlisted servicemen. After the war the Ministry of Pensions used it as a neurological hospital for shell shocked ex servicemen until 1923. The buildings then became empty and derelict. In 1930 the London County Council bought the site and it reopened as St Benedict's Hospital, which closed 50 years later in 1981. It is now a private housing estate.  

The only surviving remnants of the hospital are the entrance gateway with its posts and the clock tower which has been preserved in the grounds of the housing development.

Tooting is home to another hospital, St George's. Founded in 1733, it is one of the largest teaching hospitals in the UK. The back entrance to the hospital was not far from the tube station but it is such a huge hospital that I couldn't be bothered to walk all the way round to the front. I contented myself with finding this statue of  Dr John Hunter (1728-1793) who was a pupil at the hospital and then went on to become a surgeon.  

It was just beginning to rain so I decided it was time to go home. Once again I was surprised by the number of interesting places I had visited today and who would have thought that a Bingo Hall would be the highlight of the day.

Colliers Wood

This is the third station I've visited on the Northern Line. This is another Charles Holden station with the same features as the previous stations.

Lighting was very important to Holden.

 

Across the road from the station is this pub named after Charles Holden.

A very busy straight road runs past the underground station.

Walking in the other direction I walked past this attractive looking primary school dating back to 1897.

Christ Church was built in 1874 and despite severe damage during WW2 it is still a prominent feature of the town.

I walked back towards the station and followed a pathway running alongside the River Wandle. 

It was here I spotted an egret and a kingfisher amongst the debris of a fallen tree.

I stayed for a while just observing the kingfisher and then continued along the path to the  Merton Abbey Mills Craft Village.

Merton Abbey was one of the most important monasteries of the Middle Ages. It was an Augustinian Priory built in the early 12th century. The priory was surrendered to the crown in 1538 during the Dissolution under Henry VIII.  Although most of its buildings were demolished some remain standing today. By 1600 the textile industries were attracted to this chalk stream which was ideal for the washing, dyeing and printing of textiles. For centuries afterwards it was the centre for the manufacture and printing of textiles and until 1970 was the silk printing works of the famous Liberty store in London. Left derelict for 20 years it was restored in 1989 and is now an arts and crafts market as well as a centre for cultural entertainment, mainly opened at weekends.

The colour house theatre is the oldest building on the site and it is believed that some some parts of it may have come from the priory itself. There is patterning in the stone and flint work that is typical of Tudor buildings. This building was used for the dyeing of the fabrics. In 1995 the Colour House opened as a studio theatre. It is also a venue for regular live music and comedy nights.

Small lending library on the site. the idea is you leave a book and take another book.

William Morris, a leading figure in the Arts and Crafts movement relocated his dye works here in 1881 after determining that the water from the River Wandle was suitable for dyeing. He adapted various buildings for stained glass, textile printing, fabric and carpet weaving. The Morris works closed here in 1940.

The show house was restored in 1990 as a suite of high quality design studios. Although it looks like someone's home it was designed as part of Liberty's printworks in 1912.

Early 19th century granite millstone from Bennetts Mill discovered during excavations in 2004.

The wheelhouse dates from c1860 and is London's only working example. Liberty used to drive spools to rinse the silk after gumming and printing. The water powered potters wheel is also unique.

Two hundred years ago there were nearly 100 watermills on the River Wandle. The one here is the only one in full working order. Nowadays the Wheelhouse is a pottery workshop and gallery. The wheel is used to turn the potter's wheel. It also generates electricity and powers other machinery including a lathe.

This was where the printwork apprentices were trained. It was restored in 1989 and is now used as craft shops and studio offices.

This was the Long Shop built in 1906. It used to house furnaces on which irons were heated to press the silk flat before printing. It was restored and used as a market hall in 1989.

Liberty built this building around 1910 to store his intricate printing blocks. It is typical of William Morris's Arts and Crafts movement being a factory that resembled a house. As it wasn't the weekend when I visited, everywhere was very quiet although there were a number of crafts people working in their studios. 

There wasn't much more to see other than a retail park with the usual shops so I decided to make my way home. I was pleased I had found the Abbey Mills Craft village as this is what I will recall when I think of Colliers Wood tube station.